Nagamachi Samurai District

Nagamachi lies immediately below Kanazawa Castle and housed middle-ranking retainers of the Kaga domain, the wealthiest after the Tokugawa themselves. What survives is the street pattern and the walls: narrow lanes between earthen walls of packed clay topped with tile, with gates, and a water channel running through. In winter the walls are wrapped in komo, straw mats tied on to protect the clay from snow and freezing, which is done every December and removed in March - a working conservation measure that has become one of the images of the city. The Nomura family house is open, with a rebuilt interior and a small garden of water, stone and a pine, pressed tight against the building in a way that makes it read larger. Two small museums cover a merchant's business and a domain doctor's practice. The lanes are still residential.

What you actually see

• Earthen walls - packed clay topped with tile along narrow residential lanes.
• Winter straw matting - komo tied on from December to March to protect the clay.
• The Nomura house - an open samurai residence with a tightly composed garden.
• A water channel - running through the district as it did for the households.

When to go

December to March for the straw matting; all year otherwise. Two hours.

Honest expectations

The lanes are residential and quiet - there is little to do but walk them. Only a few houses are open and they charge. The district is small. Winter footing is icy.

Nearby

Kenrokuen and the 21st Century Museum are east; Omicho market is north.