Kuromon Market

Kuromon has traded since the nineteenth century and runs about six hundred metres under an arcade roof with roughly 150 shops - fishmongers, butchers, greengrocers, pickle and knife shops - and it was for most of its life a supply market for Osaka's restaurants, which is where the nickname Osaka's kitchen comes from. That role has shrunk and the market has adapted: many stalls now grill, steam or slice their stock for immediate eating on the street, so what you see is scallops on shells over charcoal, tuna cut to order, wagyu skewers, blowfish, oysters and crab legs sold by the piece. Restaurant supply continues in the early morning. Prices are higher than they were and higher than a supermarket, which regulars point out; the trade-off is that everything is cooked in front of you. Standing and eating in the aisle is now normal, though some shops ask that you eat at their counter.

What you actually see

• Six hundred metres under a roof - about 150 shops in a covered arcade.
• Cooked to order on the street - scallops, wagyu skewers, tuna and crab by the piece.
• A supply market underneath - restaurant trade continuing in the early morning.
• Knife and pickle shops - the older trades still working among the food stalls.

When to go

Morning to early afternoon; many stalls close by five. Two hours.

Honest expectations

Prices have risen sharply with visitor numbers and are well above supermarket. Some stalls sell frozen product presented as fresh. It is very crowded in the middle of the day. Eating while walking is discouraged by some shops.

Nearby

Dotonbori is north; Shinsekai is south-west.