Kunisaki Peninsula

Kunisaki is a circular peninsula formed by a single volcano, with valleys radiating from the centre like spokes, and that geography produced something specific: an isolated tradition called Rokugo Manzan, a fusion of Tendai Buddhism, Shugendo mountain asceticism and Hachiman shrine worship, which developed here from the eighth century and left temples in each valley. Oita prefecture, to which the peninsula belongs, holds nearly half of Japan's stone Buddhas carved directly into cliff faces - the Kumano Magaibutsu, two figures of about eight and six metres, are reached up a rough stone stair said to have been laid by a demon in one night. Fuki-ji has a wooden hall of the twelfth century, one of the oldest in Kyushu, with faded wall paintings inside. Futagoji sits at the centre with stone guardians on its approach. It is thinly visited, the roads are narrow, and a car is not optional.

Background

The almost circular peninsula juts into the Seto Inland Sea from northern Ōita, with Mount Futago at its centre and valleys running out from it to the sea. Some 1,300 years ago they were divided into six sections, and the culture of their temples, Rokugō Manzan, is said to be the birthplace of the blending of Shinto and Buddhism, drawing on Usa Jingū, head shrine of the Hachiman shrines, at the base of the peninsula. Futago-ji, more than 1,300 years old, stands on Mount Futago; Maki Ōdō keeps nationally protected statues, a seated Amida among them, Monjusen-ji is the oldest temple on the peninsula, and Iwato-ji sometimes holds Shujo Onie, a fire festival with oni. The Kunisaki Long Trail, 134 km long and used by monks for centuries, links many of the temples.

Source: Wikipedia, "Kunisaki Peninsula"

What to look for

• Radiating valleys - a circular volcanic peninsula with temples in each spoke.
• Cliff-carved Buddhas - the Kumano Magaibutsu, eight and six metres, up a rough stone stair.
• Fuki-ji - a twelfth-century wooden hall with faded wall paintings, among Kyushu's oldest.
• Rokugo Manzan - a local fusion of Tendai, Shugendo and Hachiman worship.

When to go

April to November; late November for colour in the valleys. Two days.

Before you go

A car is essential - buses barely serve the interior. Roads are narrow and winding. Several sites need short rough climbs. There are few facilities and little English signage.

Nearby

Usa Jingu is west; Beppu and Yufuin are south.

Key facts