Kaga Onsen

Kaga Onsen is not one town but four villages a few kilometres apart - Yamashiro, Yamanaka, Katayamazu and Awazu - each with its own spring, its own character and, in the traditional arrangement, a communal bathhouse at the centre with the inns around it. Yamashiro's Ko-soyu is a faithful reconstruction of the Meiji-period bathhouse with painted glass windows and a tiled bath, built as a working bath rather than a museum. Yamanaka sits on the Kakusenkei gorge, with a walking path along the river under maples and a modern bathhouse by a well-known architect; it is also the centre of Yamanaka lacquer turning, where the wood is turned along the grain rather than across it. Awazu claims a foundation of 718 and one of its inns is among the oldest continuously operating businesses anywhere. Kutani porcelain kilns are in the same district.

What you actually see

• Four separate villages - each with its own spring and communal bathhouse.
• Ko-soyu - a faithful Meiji bathhouse reconstruction at Yamashiro, in working use.
• Kakusenkei - a gorge walk under maples through Yamanaka.
• Local crafts - Yamanaka lacquer turning and Kutani porcelain kilns in the district.

When to go

November to March for crab; late November for gorge colour. Two days.

Honest expectations

The four villages are separate and moving between them needs buses or a car. Crab season prices are high and inns book out. Public bathhouse hours are limited. Tattoo rules vary.

Nearby

Kanazawa is north-east; Eiheiji is south.