Ishigaki

Ishigaki is closer to Taiwan than to the Japanese mainland and is the transport hub of the Yaeyama islands - the ferry terminal in town runs boats to Taketomi, Iriomote, Kohama and the rest, and most itineraries in this part of Japan pass through here. The island's own set piece is Kabira Bay on the north-west coast: a shallow lagoon of emerald water with wooded islets in it, viewed from the shore and toured by glass-bottomed boat, though swimming is prohibited because the bay is used for black pearl culture. Manta Scramble off the north-west is one of the more reliable places in the world to dive with reef manta rays, which gather at cleaning stations there through the warmer months. The interior rises to Omoto at 526 metres, the highest point in Okinawa prefecture, and the coast has beaches at Sukuji and Yonehara.

What you actually see

• Kabira Bay - an emerald lagoon with wooded islets, toured by glass-bottomed boat.
• Manta Scramble - reliable reef manta encounters at cleaning stations offshore.
• The Yaeyama hub - ferries from town to Taketomi, Iriomote and the rest of the group.
• Mount Omoto - 526 metres, the highest point in Okinawa prefecture.

When to go

April to October; mantas are most reliable in summer and autumn. Three days.

Honest expectations

Swimming is banned at Kabira Bay because of the pearl farms - it is a view, not a beach. Ferries to the other islands are cancelled in swell. Typhoons in late summer can strand visitors. Diving with mantas requires certification and booking ahead.

Nearby

Taketomi is ten minutes by ferry; Iriomote is about forty-five.