Buffalo Mozzarella of the Sele Plain

Water buffalo have been kept on these coastal plains since at least the Middle Ages, suited to marshy ground where cattle struggled, and the marshes were only fully drained in the twentieth century. The milk is much higher in fat and protein than cow's milk, and the cheese is made by the pasta filata method, the curd heated and stretched by hand before being cut, which is what mozzare means. It carries a protected designation covering parts of Campania and Lazio. It is at its best within a day or two of making, kept in its own whey at room temperature rather than refrigerated.

What you actually see

• The buffalo herds - animals kept on plains once too marshy for cattle.
• The stretching - curd worked by hand and cut, giving the cheese its name.
• The dairies - producers selling the same morning's cheese at the gate.
• The protected zone - a designation covering parts of Campania and Lazio.

When to go

Year-round; dairies sell fresh through the morning and many have tasting rooms. Some run visits with booking. The product does not travel well.

Honest expectations

Quality drops sharply after a day or two, so buying near the dairy matters. Many roadside outlets are commercial. Refrigeration ruins the texture.

Nearby

Paestum's Greek temples lie south; Salerno is north.