Arezzo

The Basilica of San Francesco holds Piero della Francesca's Legend of the True Cross, painted between 1452 and 1466 and among the most studied fresco cycles in Europe for its light and geometry; entry is timed and numbers are capped. Piazza Grande slopes noticeably and is ringed by buildings from four centuries, including Vasari's loggia; the Giostra del Saracino, a jousting contest between the city quarters, is run there twice a year. On the first weekend of every month the square and surrounding streets fill with one of Italy's largest antiques fairs. Roberto Benigni filmed Life is Beautiful in these streets.

History

Livy names Arezzo, Aritim in Etruscan, among the Capita Etruriae, and it is believed to have been one of the twelve leading Etruscan cities of the Etruscan League. It was later home to Giorgio Vasari, Guido of Arezzo and Guittone d'Arezzo (Wikipedia, Arezzo).

The main sights

• The True Cross cycle - Piero della Francesca's frescoes, timed entry only.
• Piazza Grande - a sloping square framed by four centuries of building.
• The antiques fair - hundreds of stalls on the first weekend monthly.
• The Giostra del Saracino - a jousting contest between city quarters.

When to go

April to June and September to October; the antiques fair falls on the first weekend of each month and the Giostra in June and September. Book the frescoes ahead.

What to expect

Fresco slots are capped, timed to around half an hour, and sell out. Fair weekends fill hotels and parking. The lower modern city is unremarkable.

Nearby

Cortona lies south; the Casentino valley runs north.

Key facts