Tel Aviv and Jaffa

Tel Aviv is the vibrant, cosmopolitan and famously liberal counterpoint to Jerusalem, a modern Mediterranean city of golden beaches, buzzing cafes, world-class food and legendary nightlife. It holds the UNESCO White City, the world's largest concentration of Bauhaus architecture, and blends seamlessly into ancient Jaffa, one of the oldest ports in the world, whose atmospheric old stone lanes, artists' quarter, flea market and harbour offer a charming, historic contrast to the young city beside it.

What you actually see

• The beaches - the long Mediterranean beachfront and promenade.
• Old Jaffa - the ancient port, stone lanes and flea market.
• The White City - the Bauhaus architecture of the modern city.
• The food and nightlife - the markets, restaurants and famous nightlife.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the mildest weather; summer is hot, humid and busy with beachgoers. The city is lively year-round, and it observes the sabbath more lightly than Jerusalem, though many businesses still close from Friday evening to Saturday.

Honest expectations

It is expensive, among the priciest cities in the region for food and lodging. It is a modern, secular beach-and-food city rather than a place of ancient monuments, with old Jaffa the main historic draw. Like the region generally, security is a consideration, though the city is geared to visitors and easygoing. Its food, beaches and energy are the appeal.

Nearby

Jerusalem is an hour away; the Roman ruins of Caesarea are up the coast.