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Girsu

A Sumerian temple city in Dhi Qar holding what is described as the oldest known bridge, and the archive of Lagash.

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WhereDhi Qar
Nearest cityNasiriyah
Best seasonNovember to March
Time to allowHalf a day
Getting thereAt Tello, about 25 km north of Nasiriyah
EntryCharged; permission and driver required

Girsu, the site of Tello, was the religious centre of the Sumerian state of Lagash and one of the first Mesopotamian cities to be excavated, by French teams from 1877, whose finds included the statues of Gudea and tens of thousands of administrative tablets that opened up Sumerian language and administration to scholarship. A recent British Museum project has worked here, and among its results is the identification and conservation of a mudbrick structure spanning an ancient watercourse, dated to around 2000 BC and presented as the oldest known bridge in the world, along with the sacred precinct of the god Ningirsu. The site is a low mound complex in flat farmland, with excavation areas and conservation shelters over the main structures.

What you actually see

  • The ancient bridge - the mudbrick span over a dried watercourse.
  • The Ningirsu precinct - the excavated sacred area of the city god.
  • Conservation shelters - covers put up over the principal structures.
  • The mound complex - the low tells spread across the fields.

When to go

November to March; the southern plain is severe in summer and there is no shade. Excavation seasons run in the cooler months and may affect access. Mornings are best.

Honest expectations

Everything is mudbrick and low. Access requires permission and a driver who knows the route. There is no visitor infrastructure. The Gudea statues and the tablets are in the Louvre, the British Museum and Baghdad rather than on site.

Nearby

Nasiriyah lies south; Uruk is northwest.

What to pack for Girsu

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Opening times, ticket prices and seasonal closures change - check the official source before you go: official site.

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