Shandiz Shishlik

Shandiz is a village in the hills west of Mashhad given over almost entirely to one dish: shishlik, lamb chops from the rack marinated and grilled over charcoal, served with saffron rice, grilled tomato and butter, and priced by weight so that a portion is ordered in grams rather than by the plate. Restaurants line the road for a considerable distance, some very large, and Mashhad families and pilgrims drive out for lunch as a matter of course, particularly at weekends. The meat comes from local sheep and the quality of the lamb is the argument between establishments. The setting in the Binalud foothills, with streams and orchards, is cooler than the city and is part of why the habit developed.

What you actually see

• Lamb chops over charcoal - the single dish the village trades on.
• Ordering by weight - portions bought in grams rather than plates.
• A road of large restaurants - the whole village given to one trade.
• Binalud foothill setting - streams and orchards cooler than Mashhad.

When to go

April to October for the setting, though the restaurants work year round. Lunch is the meal for it. Two to three hours including the drive. Fridays and holidays are extremely busy and waits are long.

Honest expectations

It is one dish and there is nothing else to do in Shandiz. Portions are large and expensive by Iranian standards. Weekend waits can run to an hour or more. Quality varies a great deal between the many restaurants and the biggest are not the best.

Nearby

Torqabeh is on the same road; Kang village lies further into the mountains.