Nain

Nain sits at the edge of the central desert on the road between Isfahan and Yazd, and its congregational mosque is one of the oldest surviving in Iran, largely of the tenth century, built before the four-iwan plan became standard: a hypostyle hall on brick piers with carved stucco of remarkable delicacy on the columns, arches and mihrab, in deep abstract and floral patterning. Below the town runs the Pirnia house and an underground hall used for weaving, one of several subterranean spaces cut for the cool temperature. Nain is known for two crafts: fine carpets in pale wool and silk, distinctive for their high knot counts, and the weaving of camel-hair cloaks, both still worked in the town. A ruined citadel stands on the rise above.

History

The history of Nain appears to go back to pre-Islamic times, though nothing of it is recorded. The Jameh Mosque was built under the Buyid dynasty, which ruled from 934 to 1062, Hamdallah Mustawfi reported that the walls of its castle, still standing as mud-brick remnants, were four thousand paces long, and in the Safavid era kaolin from Nain was used to make porcelain at Kashan (Wikipedia, Nain, Iran).

The main sights

• Tenth-century carved stucco - deep abstract patterning on piers and mihrab.
• A pre-iwan hypostyle mosque - the plan used before four-iwan courtyards.
• Underground weaving halls - subterranean rooms cut for cool working.
• Nain carpets and camel-hair cloaks - the crafts still worked in the town.

When to go

March to May and October to November. Two to three hours as a stop on the Isfahan to Yazd road. Mornings for light into the mosque, which is dim. Summer here is very hot.

Things to know

The mosque is often locked and needs a keyholder, who may take some finding. The stucco is high and dim; a torch helps. Carpet sales pressure is strong in the workshops. The town has few facilities for visitors.

Nearby

Isfahan is west; Yazd lies south-east across the desert.

Key facts