Mesr Desert

Mesr is a tiny palm oasis in the middle of the Dasht-e Kavir, a handful of houses and guesthouses around water in a bowl of very high sand dunes, and its remoteness is the point: the nearest town of any size is Khur, and beyond the village the desert runs empty in every direction. Guesthouses in the village run the standard programme of dune trips by four-wheel-drive, camel rides, sandboarding and overnight camping out in the sand, and the dunes here are large enough that a sunset climb is a real effort. A salt lake lies to the west and the abandoned village of Farahzad and a second oasis at Garmeh are on the same route. Nights are silent and the sky is exceptional.

What you actually see

• High dunes around the village - sand rising directly behind the palms.
• A palm oasis with water - the spring the settlement exists for.
• Overnight desert camping - the standard trip out from the guesthouses.
• Silence and dark sky - no settlement or road noise in any direction.

When to go

October to April; the central desert is impossible in summer. Two days minimum given the drive. Nights are cold from November to February and warm bedding matters. Iranian holidays fill the guesthouses.

Honest expectations

It is a very long drive from anywhere, six hours or more from Isfahan or Tehran. Guesthouses are simple with shared facilities and unreliable power. Everything is arranged informally and prices vary. Litter around the popular dune spots is a problem.

Nearby

Garmeh oasis is on the same route; Khur is the nearest town.