Lahijan

Tea was introduced to Iran commercially at Lahijan in the early twentieth century by Kashef al-Saltaneh, who brought plants and knowledge back from India, and the humid Caspian climate suited it, so the hills behind the town are covered in terraced tea gardens that run in green steps up the slopes and are the image of Gilan. A tea museum in the founder's mausoleum on the hill covers the history and the processing. Below, the town has a lake with pedal boats, a hillside park with a chairlift, and a food culture that Gilan is known for across Iran, with sour and herb-heavy dishes, walnut and pomegranate sauces and abundant fresh vegetables. The tea harvest runs through the warm months.

History

Before Iran's present provinces, the Sefid-Rud river divided Gilan into Biehpish to the east and Biehpas to the west, and Lahijan at one time became the capital of Biehpish. The region was long a major silk-producing centre, and it was the first place in Iran where tea was grown, by Prince Mohammad Mirza, known as Kashef-ol-Saltaneh (Wikipedia, Lahijan).

What's there

• Terraced tea gardens - green steps covering the hills behind the town.
• The tea museum - the history of the crop in the founder's mausoleum.
• The town lake and hillside park - the local recreation ground.
• Gilani food - sour, herb-heavy cooking distinct from the rest of Iran.

When to go

May to September for the green gardens and the harvest. Half a day. Weekends bring domestic visitors. Rain is frequent on the Caspian side at any season, which is why the tea grows.

Before you go

The town itself is ordinary and the gardens are the point. Rain is common and can wash out a visit. The museum is small. Summer humidity is heavy. Roads on the Caspian plain are congested at holidays.

Nearby

Rasht is west; the Caspian coast lies north.