Rudkhan Castle

Rudkhan is a fortress built along two ridges in the Hyrcanian forest of Gilan, of Sassanid origin and rebuilt in the Seljuk period, with about a kilometre and a half of curtain wall, sixty-five towers, gates and internal buildings following the natural line of the rock. Its situation is what makes it: the forest is dense and green, the walls run through the trees, and there is no road, so the only access is a stepped path climbing about a thousand steps up the valley, which takes an hour or more and is the reason many visitors turn back. Streams cross the path and stalls sell tea and food along the lower section. The humidity of Gilan keeps the whole site mossy and green in a way that Iranian castles generally are not.

What you actually see

• A kilometre and a half of wall - curtain and towers following two ridges.
• The stepped forest climb - around a thousand steps to the gate.
• Sixty-five towers - the fortification strung along the rock.
• Hyrcanian forest - dense green woodland around and through the walls.

When to go

April to October; the path is slippery and the forest wet outside that, and winter brings snow. Half a day including the climb. Weekdays are far quieter. Early starts avoid both heat and crowds.

Honest expectations

The climb is long, steep and hard work in humidity, and many people underestimate it. Steps are uneven and slippery when wet. Stalls and crowds along the lower path spoil the quiet. There is no vehicle access whatsoever.

Nearby

Masuleh is in the same mountains; Fuman and Rasht lie east.