Golestan Palace

Golestan is the oldest of Tehran's historic complexes, the Qajar dynasty's court from the eighteenth century onward, and its buildings show the moment Persian craft met European influence: mirror halls of cut glass covering entire rooms, painted tile panels across the exteriors depicting court scenes and landscapes, and the Marble Throne terrace where coronations were held. Inside are the halls used for state ceremony, the photographic collections of a shah who took up the new medium enthusiastically, and gardens with pools and old trees that give relief from central Tehran outside the walls.

What you actually see

• The Marble Throne terrace - the open ceremonial pavilion.
• The Hall of Mirrors - cut-glass mosaic covering the whole interior.
• The exterior tile panels - painted scenes across the building faces.
• The gardens - pools and trees inside the palace walls.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the comfortable seasons in Tehran, which is hot in summer and cold in winter. The palace is closed on some public holidays. Mornings are quieter; weekends bring Iranian families.

Honest expectations

Tickets are sold per building rather than as one pass, and the total for everything adds up - most visitors choose three or four. Some halls have photography restrictions or extra charges. Tehran traffic makes travel across the city slow; the metro is far quicker. As everywhere in Iran, bring cash, observe dress rules and sort the visa in advance.

Nearby

The Grand Bazaar, the National Museum and the Treasury of National Jewels.