Darband

Darband is where Tehran walks. A stepped path climbs a narrow stream valley from the top of the city into the Alborz, and for the first kilometre or so it is lined on both sides with teahouses and restaurants built out over the water on platforms, selling grilled meat, tea, hookah and fruit, with tables among the boulders and the stream running through. Beyond them the crowds thin and the path continues as a genuine mountain route toward Tochal and the higher peaks, used by large numbers of Tehranis at weekends. The combination of an intensely social lower section and serious hiking above is the character of the place, and Fridays see the whole valley full from dawn.

What you actually see

• Teahouses over the stream - platforms and tables built among the boulders.
• The stepped valley path - the route climbing from the city into the mountains.
• Weekend crowds - Tehranis walking the valley in numbers from dawn.
• The route on toward Tochal - the serious hiking above the restaurants.

When to go

April to June and September to November for the walking; the lower valley works year round. Half a day. Fridays and Thursday evenings are packed. Early mornings are far quieter.

Honest expectations

The lower section is extremely crowded at weekends and prices in the teahouses are high. The path is steep and uneven with a lot of steps. Litter is a problem. Going beyond the restaurants needs proper footwear and, in winter, real equipment.

Nearby

Tajrish bazaar is below; Tochal and the gondola lie west.