Alam-Kuh

Alam-Kuh reaches 4,850 metres in the Takht-e Suleyman massif of the central Alborz and is the second highest mountain in Iran, but unlike Damavand it is a serious mountaineering objective rather than a walk. Its north face is a granite wall of about eight hundred metres, the largest in Iran and the main venue for technical rock and alpine climbing in the country, with routes established since the 1930s. The normal southern route is a scramble, but the approach from Rudbarak in the north goes up through the Alam Chal valley with a hut at about 4,100 metres and glacier remnants on the upper slopes. The surrounding massif holds several other peaks above four thousand metres and a long ridge traverse is possible.

The landscape

• The granite north wall - eight hundred metres, the largest face in Iran.
• Glacier remnants - the last ice on the upper northern slopes.
• The Alam Chal hut - the base camp at about 4,100 metres.
• A massif of four-thousand-metre peaks - the ridge running from the summit.

When to go

July to September; snow makes the routes serious outside that window. Three to five days including approach and acclimatisation. The north wall requires technical climbing experience and equipment.

Good to know

This is a mountaineering objective, not a hike, and the north face routes need real experience. Altitude affects most people. The hut is basic and crowded in season. There is no organised rescue. Weather changes fast and storms are dangerous.

Nearby

Rudbarak and Kelardasht are north; Damavand lies east along the range.

Key facts