Sekumpul Waterfall

Sekumpul is a set of waterfalls in a steep, green valley in the north of Bali, well away from the beach resorts. Several streams drop off the same cliff line into a narrow amphitheatre, and the walk in involves a long flight of concrete steps down through gardens of clove and coffee, then a wade across the river at the bottom. A second fall, Fiji, sits a short way upstream and is usually included. The valley is loud with water and genuinely humid, and the pools at the base are cold. It takes a full morning from Ubud and is the most physically demanding of Bali's accessible waterfalls.

What you actually see

• The main falls - several streams dropping together into a narrow green amphitheatre.
• Fiji waterfall - a second fall a short walk upstream, usually part of the same visit.
• The valley viewpoint - the platform on the rim looking across at the falls before the descent.
• The spice gardens - clove, coffee and cacao growing along the path down.

When to go

April to October means less mud on the steps and safer river crossings; after heavy rain the water turns brown and the crossing can be closed. Start early, both for light in the valley and to be back up before the afternoon heat. Allow three to four hours on the ground, longer if you swim.

Honest expectations

The climb back up is hundreds of steps in heat and humidity, and people underestimate it badly. Ticketing is confusing: there are competing entrances run by different villages, with different prices and different levels of pushiness about hiring a guide. Rocks at the base are slippery. In dry months the flow is much thinner than the photographs suggest.

Nearby

The north coast at Lovina and the Munduk hill country are close.