Lovina

Lovina is a stretch of the north Bali coast round Kalibukbuk, black sand and a shallow reef that keeps the water flat, which makes it entirely unlike the surf coasts of the south - there are no waves, the swimming is calm, and the pace is slow and considerably cheaper. It was the alternative to Kuta for an older generation of travellers and retains that character. The activity it is known for is the dawn dolphin trip: outrigger boats leave before first light to find pods offshore, and the honest problem is the number of them - when a pod surfaces, dozens of boats converge and chase, which is stressful for the animals and is criticised by marine biologists and by some operators who now run trips on different terms. Hot springs at Banjar are inland.

What you actually see

• A calm black-sand coast - reef-sheltered water with no surf.
• Dawn dolphin boats - the outriggers going out before first light.
• Boat crowding on pods - dozens converging, which is the practice's central problem.
• A quieter, cheaper Bali - the north coast pace and prices.

When to go

April to October; dawn for the boats. Two days.

Honest expectations

The dolphin trips as usually run involve dozens of boats chasing pods - if that bothers you, choose an operator with a stated code or skip it. The beach is black sand and unremarkable.

Nearby

Banjar hot springs and Munduk are inland; Pemuteran is west.