Penyengat Island

Penyengat is a small island off Tanjung Pinang given as a wedding gift in 1805 and made the seat of the Yang Dipertuan Muda, the effective rulers of the Riau-Lingga sultanate, and for the nineteenth century it was a centre of Malay letters: Raja Ali Haji, who wrote the Gurindam Dua Belas and the Bustan al-Katibin, compiled here what is generally regarded as the first systematic grammar of the Malay language, which matters given that Malay became the basis of Indonesian. The yellow Sultan Riau mosque of 1832 is the landmark; the tradition that its mortar was mixed with egg white is repeated on every visit and is not documented but is not implausible for the period. Around it are royal tombs including Raja Ali Haji's, palace ruins and a well.

What you actually see

• The yellow mosque - the 1832 Sultan Riau mosque, with its egg white tradition.
• Raja Ali Haji's tomb - the writer of the first Malay grammar, buried on the island.
• Palace ruins - the remains of the Riau-Lingga court buildings.
• A short boat crossing - fifteen minutes by pompong from Tanjung Pinang.

When to go

All year; mornings before the heat. Half a day.

Honest expectations

It is small and quiet with few facilities. The mosque is active - modest dress required, and women may be restricted in parts. Motorbike taxis are the transport; there are no cars.

Nearby

Tanjung Pinang is across the water; Bintan's resorts are north.