Pangandaran

Pangandaran occupies an isthmus on the south coast of West Java with beaches on both the west and east sides, so you can watch sunrise on one and sunset on the other by walking a few hundred metres, and at its southern tip is the Pananjung nature reserve - a headland of forest holding deer, macaques, monitor lizards, rafflesia in season, caves used in the Japanese occupation and a shore that can be walked. In July 2006 an earthquake in the Java Trench generated a tsunami that struck this coast with almost no warning and killed several hundred people at Pangandaran alone; the town rebuilt, and evacuation signage and sirens are now part of the streetscape. It is the main beach resort for Bandung and gets very busy on holidays.

What you actually see

• Beaches on both sides - sunrise and sunset within a few hundred metres.
• The Pananjung reserve - forest, deer, caves and a walkable shore at the tip.
• Tsunami evacuation signage - the response to the 2006 disaster in the streets.
• A domestic resort town - busy with Bandung and Jakarta holidaymakers.

When to go

May to September; weekdays outside holidays for space. Two days.

Honest expectations

Currents on the west beach are dangerous and drownings occur - swim where flagged. Holiday weekends are extremely crowded. The reserve charges separately and guides are pushed hard.

Nearby

Green Canyon and Batu Karas are west along the coast; Ciamis is inland.