Kotagede Silver

Kotagede was the seat of the Mataram kingdom in the late sixteenth century and is now a quarter of Yogyakarta with narrow lanes, walled houses and a workshop economy built on silver. The speciality is filigree: fine drawn wire coiled and soldered into open patterns for bowls, brooches, miniature carriages and models of the Borobudur stupas. Larger showrooms keep their benches visible, so you can watch wire being drawn, twisted and set before it reaches the display case. Between the shops the old town survives in fragments, including the walled royal cemetery and a mosque with a split gateway, both still in use and both with dress requirements.

History

Kotagede was once the Mentaok forest, which the ruler of Pajang gave in the last quarter of the 16th century to his courtier Ki Ageng Pemanahan; after Pemanahan died in 1575 his son Danang Sutawijaya proclaimed himself king of Mataram as Panembahan Senapati, and the small town became the capital of Mataram. His successor, Mas Jolang, who came to the throne in 1601, built much within the palace during his 12-year reign, including its central hall, Prabayeksa (Wikipedia, Kotagede).

What to look for

• Filigree work - drawn silver wire coiled and soldered into open patterns.
• Workshop benches - soldering and polishing done in the open behind the showrooms.
• The old lanes - walled Javanese houses and gateways from the Mataram period.
• Beginner classes - two or three hours making a simple ring or pendant.

When to go

Workshops open through the morning and most close by late afternoon, so arrive before three. Weekdays are quieter and the smiths have more time to explain what they are doing. The royal cemetery in the quarter opens only on set days and asks visitors to wear Javanese court dress, which can be hired at the gate.

Good to know

Silver prices here are not as low as the location suggests, and the same pieces turn up in city gift shops for similar money. Filigree is fragile and travels badly. Some showrooms run a workshop tour that ends in heavy sales pressure. The quarter is spread out and walking between workshops in the midday heat is unpleasant.

Nearby

Central Yogyakarta and the palace are twenty minutes north-west.