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Sivasagar

The capital of a kingdom that ruled Assam for six hundred years and turned back the Mughals repeatedly.

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WhereAssam
Nearest citySivasagar
Best seasonNovember to March
Time to allowA day
Getting thereSivasagar district, upper Assam; road from Jorhat, about 55 km
EntryFree at tanks; monuments charged

The Ahom kingdom ruled Assam from 1228 to 1826, close to six hundred years, defeating repeated Mughal invasions including the decisive battle at Saraighat in 1671, and Sivasagar was among its capitals. Its monuments are distinctive: Rang Ghar, a two-storey oval pavilion of the 1740s built as a royal viewing stand for games and buffalo fights, commonly called one of Asia's oldest surviving amphitheatre structures; Talatal Ghar, a palace with underground floors and tunnels; and Kareng Ghar. The Sivasagar tank, dug in 1734, covers about a hundred and twenty-nine acres with three temples on its bank and stands above the surrounding land.

What you actually see

  • Rang Ghar - an oval royal viewing pavilion of the 1740s.
  • Talatal Ghar - a palace with underground storeys and blocked tunnels.
  • The Sivasagar tank - a huge eighteenth-century tank above ground level.
  • The bank temples - Shivadol and two others on the tank's edge.

When to go

November to March; Assam summers are hot and the monsoon brings flooding. Sites are spread across the town and a vehicle helps. Mornings are quiet.

Honest expectations

Monuments are scattered with limited interpretation. Underground sections at Talatal Ghar are sealed. The town itself is workaday and facilities modest.

Nearby

Charaideo lies east; Jorhat is southwest.

What to pack for Sivasagar

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Opening times, ticket prices and seasonal closures change - check the official source before you go: official site.

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