Paranthe Wali Gali

The lane running south off Chandni Chowk took its name from the paratha shops that opened here in the later nineteenth century, several of which still trade under the founding families' names with dates from the 1870s and 1880s on their boards. What distinguishes the Delhi version is the cooking: the stuffed bread is deep fried in ghee in a shallow iron pan rather than shallow-cooked on a griddle, which makes it puffed and crisp. Fillings run well beyond potato, to cauliflower, radish, paneer, lentil, banana, almond and mixed vegetable, and each is served with a set of chutneys, pickled vegetable and a sweet pumpkin curry.

History

The lane, in the Chandni Chowk laid out in 1650, was once known only for its silverware shops, until paratha shops began moving in during the 1870s. Of the 20 paratha shops of the late 1960s, all run by branches of one family, three remain, founded in 1875, 1882 and 1886, and by 1911 the lane, once called Chota Dariba, had become known as Paranthewali Gali (Wikipedia, Gali Paranthe Wali).

The main sights

• The ghee frying - breads deep fried in shallow iron pans at the shopfront.
• The filling range - potato, radish, paneer, banana, almond and more.
• The accompaniments - chutneys, pickle and sweet pumpkin served with each.
• The old shopfronts - family names and founding dates on the boards.

When to go

October to March for comfortable weather in the lane; shops run from late morning into the evening. Mornings are less crowded. The lane is at its busiest around festivals.

Good to know

The food is heavy and very rich in ghee, which does not suit everyone. The lane is narrow, hot and packed. Quality between shops varies and touts steer visitors to particular ones.

Nearby

Chandni Chowk runs past the entrance; Jama Masjid lies south.

Key facts