Papikondalu

The Godavari cuts through the Eastern Ghats in a gorge where forested hills close in on both banks, and the stretch called Papikondalu, the hills of Papi, is travelled by boat over several hours from Rajahmundry or points upstream. The hills carry dense forest, and Konda Reddi and other Adivasi villages along the banks are reached only by water. The Polavaram dam project downstream has been under construction for years and will submerge part of the gorge and displace communities when complete, which has made the trip something people do partly because the landscape as it stands will change.

What you actually see

• The gorge - forested hills closing on both banks of the Godavari.
• The river villages - Adivasi settlements reachable only by boat.
• The long boat journey - several hours upstream through the hills.
• The changing river - a landscape the dam project will alter.

When to go

October to March for calm water and comfortable weather; boats are suspended in the monsoon when the river runs high. Day trips and overnight package trips both operate.

Honest expectations

Boats are crowded and some operators overload them; there have been fatal accidents on this stretch. Trips are long, often ten hours or more. Facilities on board are basic.

Nearby

Rajahmundry lies downstream; Bhadrachalam is upstream in Telangana.