Maheshwar

Maheshwar was made a capital by Ahilyabai Holkar, who ruled Malwa from 1767 to 1795 and is remembered for temple building across India, and her fort stands above a long sweep of stone ghats on the Narmada where the river is wide and slow. Steps, pavilions and shrines run along the water with boats crossing and evening lamp ceremonies. She also established weaving here, and the Maheshwari saree, in cotton and silk with distinctive reversible borders, is still made on pit looms in the town; a trust founded in 1979 revived the craft when it had nearly died out, and its workshops can be visited.

What you actually see

• The ghats - long stone steps and pavilions along the Narmada.
• The fort - Ahilyabai's residence above the river, partly a hotel.
• The handlooms - pit looms weaving Maheshwari sarees in town workshops.
• The evening aarti - lamp ceremonies on the water.

When to go

October to March; the Narmada runs high in the monsoon and low in late spring. Weaving workshops run on weekdays. Summer in Malwa is hot.

Honest expectations

The fort is partly a private hotel with restricted access. Weaving workshops expect purchase interest. The town is small and quiet with limited dining.

Nearby

Omkareshwar lies east; Mandu is north.