Maheshwar

Maheshwar was made a capital by Ahilyabai Holkar, who ruled Malwa from 1767 to 1795 and is remembered for temple building across India, and her fort stands above a long sweep of stone ghats on the Narmada where the river is wide and slow. Steps, pavilions and shrines run along the water with boats crossing and evening lamp ceremonies. She also established weaving here, and the Maheshwari saree, in cotton and silk with distinctive reversible borders, is still made on pit looms in the town; a trust founded in 1979 revived the craft when it had nearly died out, and its workshops can be visited.

Background

The town stands on the northern bank of the Narmada in Khargone district, at an elevation of 154 m. Tradition makes it the realm of Kartavirya Arjuna, a Heheya ruler. A popular legend tells of King Sahasrarjun holding back the Narmada with his 1000 arms, and the Sahasrarjun temple still lights 11 lamps in honour of Agni. Under the Holkars it was the capital of Malwa until Malhar Rao Holkar III moved the capital to Indore on 6 January 1818. Handloom weaving has gone on here since the 5th century, and about 130 weavers working with the Rehwa Society turn out over 100,000 metres of fine fabric each year. The temple of Vindhyavasini Bhavani is one of the 24 Shaktipeeths.

Source: Wikipedia, "Maheshwar"

The main sights

• The ghats - long stone steps and pavilions along the Narmada.
• The fort - Ahilyabai's residence above the river, partly a hotel.
• The handlooms - pit looms weaving Maheshwari sarees in town workshops.
• The evening aarti - lamp ceremonies on the water.

When to go

October to March; the Narmada runs high in the monsoon and low in late spring. Weaving workshops run on weekdays. Summer in Malwa is hot.

Good to know

The fort is partly a private hotel with restricted access. Weaving workshops expect purchase interest. The town is small and quiet with limited dining.

Nearby

Omkareshwar lies east; Mandu is north.

Key facts