Junagarh Fort

Junagarh was begun in 1589 by Raja Rai Singh, a general in Akbar's service, and unlike most Rajput strongholds it stands on the plain, defended by walls, bastions and a moat rather than by height, and it was never taken despite repeated attempts. Successive rulers added palaces inside over three centuries, so the interiors range from carved red sandstone courts to the Anup Mahal with gilded plasterwork, the Phool Mahal with mirrors and coloured glass, the Chandra Mahal, and a hall built for a First World War biplane presented to the maharaja, which is still parked in the fort.

What you actually see

• Anup Mahal - gilded and lacquered plasterwork over red and gold walls.
• Phool Mahal - mirrored and coloured glass interiors.
• The biplane - a First World War aircraft displayed inside the fort.
• The courtyards - carved sandstone courts between the palace blocks.

When to go

October to March; Bikaner summers exceed forty degrees. Interiors are cool. The fort is quieter than the Jaipur and Jodhpur equivalents at most times.

Honest expectations

Interiors are visited on a set route with an audio guide, and independent wandering is limited. Photography inside is charged. Bikaner is a long way from the main Rajasthan circuit.

Nearby

Karni Mata temple lies south; Jaisalmer is southwest.