Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur

Mehrangarh stands on a rock about a hundred and twenty metres above Jodhpur, its walls following the cliff so closely that from below it is hard to see where stone ends and masonry begins. Inside, past a sequence of gates, the fort opens into courtyards and palace rooms of carved sandstone, screens cut so fine that light comes through them in patterns, and a museum of palanquins, howdahs, arms, textiles and miniature paintings that is unusually well presented for an Indian fort. From the ramparts you look straight down onto the blue-washed houses of the old city, a colour convention that now covers much of the quarter. The audio guide included with the ticket is worth using.

What you actually see

• The carved screens - sandstone jali windows and balconies worked to lace across the palace fronts.
• The museum galleries - palanquins, howdahs, arms and Marwar miniature painting.
• The ramparts - the walk along the cliff edge with the blue city laid out below.
• The courtyards - a linked sequence of palace yards, each with a different face and function.

When to go

October to March is the workable season; from April Jodhpur is one of the hotter cities in the country and the fort has long exposed stretches. Arrive at opening or come for the last two hours, when the sandstone turns orange and the blue houses below hold the light. Sunset from the ramparts is the single best moment of the visit.

Honest expectations

The ticket price is high by Indian standards and there are extra charges for cameras and for the zip line across the ravine. The route through the palace rooms is narrow and one-way, so tour groups bottleneck at the good views. The climb from the old city is steep in heat. Some rooms are behind glass or rope and hard to see properly.

Nearby

The white marble Jaswant Thada memorial is a short walk down the hill, and the clock tower bazaar sits below the fort.