Skaftafell

Skaftafell is a nose of vegetated land pushed out between glacier tongues below Oraefajokull, and the contrast is the whole point: birch and grass on the moraine, ice on both sides, and black outwash sand in front. It was a national park in its own right from 1967 and became part of Vatnajokull National Park when that was created in 2008; the park was inscribed as a World Heritage site in 2019 for the way volcanic activity under ice has shaped it. Svartifoss, the fall over black columns, is an hour's walk up from the centre. Longer routes climb to Kristinartindar and out to the glacier viewpoints at Sjonarnipa.

History

Soon after Iceland was settled, Skaftafell became a major farm where district assemblies were held, until the eruption of Öræfajökull in 1362 wiped out the whole local community and gave the district its name, Öræfi, the wasteland. The farms were soon re-established, but a cooling climate and the floods of meltwater and ash set off by Grímsvötn eruptions made farming ever harder; the farmers also hunted seals, gathered eggs on the coast and worked wood from stranded ships, and in the early 19th century, after the Skeiðará river ate into its fields, the farm moved up the slopes and was split into three households, one of which, Sel, abandoned in 1946, has been restored by the National Museum. Traditional farming at Skaftafell ended in 1988 (Wikipedia, Skaftafell).

What's there

• Green between two glaciers - birch and grass on moraine, ice on both flanks.
• Svartifoss - the fall over black basalt columns, an hour up.
• A park inscribed in 2019 - for volcanism under ice.
• Longer routes above - Kristinartindar and the Sjonarnipa viewpoints.

When to go

June to September for the full path network; the centre is open all year. A full day.

Before you go

Trails are busy near the centre, particularly the Svartifoss route in the middle of the day. Weather here is wetter than the rest of the south coast. Going onto glacier ice requires a guide. Parking is charged and the car park fills by late morning.

Nearby

Svinafellsjokull is minutes east; Jokulsarlon is further along route 1.

Key facts