Mount Esja

Esja is not one peak but a ridge about ten kilometres long across Kollafjordur from Reykjavik, rising to 914 metres, and it functions as the city's exercise ground - the path from Mogilsa is walked by thousands of Reykjavikers a week, with numbered marker posts up the route and a boulder called Steinn at 597 metres where most people stop and turn round. Beyond Steinn the last stretch to Thverfellshorn involves chains and scrambling on rock that is often wet. The mountain changes colour through the day as light moves across its basalt and tuff, which is the thing residents mention: it is the backdrop to the city and looks different every hour.

What you actually see

• The city's exercise ridge - thousands walking it every week.
• Steinn at 597 metres - the boulder where most people stop.
• Chains on the final section - scrambling to Thverfellshorn beyond Steinn.
• Colour shifting through the day - the reason it dominates Reykjavik's outlook.

When to go

May to September; winter needs spikes and experience. Half a day.

Honest expectations

The section above Steinn is genuinely steep and slippery, and people get into trouble on it in poor weather. There is no shelter on the route. Weather changes fast and the top is often in cloud. The car park fills at weekends.

Nearby

Reykjavik is across the bay; Thingvellir is east.