Dettifoss

Dettifoss carries the Jokulsa a Fjollum, a glacial river off Vatnajokull, over a 45 metre drop into the Jokulsargljufur canyon, and the water is grey with sediment rather than clear. Volume rather than height is the point: it is generally described as the most powerful waterfall in Europe, and the ground vibrates near the lip. There are two sides and they are not interchangeable. The western bank has a paved road, a large car park and a fenced platform close to the fall. The eastern bank is gravel, rougher underfoot and open, and puts you level with the drop. Selfoss lies a short walk upstream on either side.

What you actually see

• The lip - the point where the whole river tips into the canyon, with spray drifting downstream.
• The canyon - Jokulsargljufur running north below the fall.
• Selfoss - a wider, lower fall about a kilometre upstream, reachable on foot from both banks.
• The two banks - the paved western viewpoint and the rougher, closer eastern one.

When to go

June to September, when both approach roads are open and the paths are clear of snow. The east road is gravel and tends to shut earliest in autumn. Spray keeps the rocks near the viewpoints permanently wet, so mornings with light wind are best. Winter access is limited to the west side and never guaranteed.

Honest expectations

The rocks around both viewpoints are wet, dark and slippery, and barriers on the east side are minimal. Spray will coat a camera in seconds. The water is glacial grey, which disappoints people expecting blue. Choosing the wrong bank means an hour of driving to reach the other one, since there is no bridge nearby.

Nearby

Asbyrgi sits at the northern end of the same canyon, with Myvatn to the south.