Kecskemet

Kecskemet grew rich on livestock and fruit in the late nineteenth century and spent the money on buildings, which is why a market town in the middle of the plain has one of the better collections of Hungarian secession architecture outside Budapest. Odon Lechner and Gyula Partos built the town hall in the 1890s with Zsolnay ceramic and a carillon that still plays; the Cifrapalota of 1902 carries a facade of coloured folk-derived tilework that looks like nothing else on the square. The town produced Zoltan Kodaly, and the institute that carries his name teaches his music education method to students from around the world. Kecskemeti apricot brandy carries a protected designation and the orchards surround the town.

History

The name comes from the Hungarian kecske, "goat", and -mét, "pass", and the earliest human traces in the area are about 5,000 years old. On an important trade route, Kecskemét grew as a customs post and market, named a town in a charter of Louis I in 1368; under the Ottomans, villagers from around took shelter behind its palisades, the town paid its taxes directly to the pasha of Buda for his protection, and by the early 18th century its people kept nearly 30,000 cattle on common grazing land (Wikipedia, Kecskemét).

What's there

• The Cifrapalota facade - folk-derived tilework across a 1902 front.
• Lechner's town hall - Zsolnay ceramic and a working carillon.
• The Kodaly Institute - the music teaching method taught here.
• Apricot brandy - the protected local spirit from the surrounding orchards.

When to go

April to October. Half a day. The carillon plays at set times through the day. Museums close on Mondays. The main square is best in morning light.

Practical notes

The interest is concentrated in two or three squares and the rest of the town is ordinary. Several small museums have short hours. Summer on the plain is very hot with little shade.

Nearby

Hajos cellar village is south; Budapest lies north.

Key facts