Canhabaque

Canhabaque, also called Roxa, lies east of Bubaque in the Bijagós and is known within the archipelago for having held to Bijagó custom more completely than the other islands: the age-grade system, the initiation cycles and the authority of the elders continue to structure life there, and the island resisted Portuguese control into the twentieth century. Villages sit inland among palm and forest.

Background

Canhabaque, one of the Bissagos Islands, belongs to the Bolama Region and the Bubaque sector. It covers 111 square kilometres, measuring 20 kilometres in length and 11 kilometres in width. The 2009 census counted 2,478 people, spread across villages that include Ambuduco, Ampucute, Indena Grande, Inore, Bine and Meneque. A lighthouse stands on the island's east side, with a focal height of 26 metres.

Source: Wikipedia, "Roxa"

What's there

• The traditional structures - the age-grade and initiation system still governing life.
• The inland villages - settlements set back from the shore among the palms.
• The resistance history - an island that held out against colonial control.
• The Bijagó society - one of the few matrilineal systems in West Africa.

When to go

November to May is the dry season and the practical window. The rains from June make boat travel difficult. Ceremonial cycles follow their own calendar.

What to expect

Visits need arranging with the communities and photography rules are strict. Ceremonies are not open to visitors and should not be sought out. There is no accommodation beyond village arrangements.

Nearby

Bubaque is west, and Orango is southwest.

Key facts