Qumarkaj

Q'umarkaj, also called Utatlan, was the capital of the K'iche' kingdom, founded in the fourteenth century on a plateau surrounded by ravines, and it was burned by the Spanish in 1524. What remains is low: plaza groups, platform foundations, a ball court and the outlines of temples on open grass above the gorges. Its living significance is underground. A tunnel runs beneath the site, its origins argued over, and it is used continuously by K'iche' spiritual guides for ceremonies, so that walking into it means passing through smoke, candles and offerings with people at prayer. The Popol Vuh, the K'iche' book of creation, is bound up with this place.

What you actually see

• The ceremonial tunnel - candles, smoke and offerings underground.
• Plaza and ball court foundations - the layout of the K'iche' capital.
• Ravines around the plateau - the defensive setting of the city.
• The Popol Vuh connection - the K'iche' history tied to this place.

When to go

November to April, before the rains return. Half a day from Santa Cruz del Quiche. Ceremonies are frequent; ask before entering the tunnel and do not photograph people at prayer.

Honest expectations

Surface remains are low and eroded and there is little interpretation. The tunnel is dark, smoky and narrow, and it is a place of worship rather than an attraction. Bring a torch. Behaviour matters here more than at most sites.

Nearby

Santa Cruz del Quiche is east; Chichicastenango lies south.