Qumarkaj

Q'umarkaj, also called Utatlan, was the capital of the K'iche' kingdom, founded around 1400 on a plateau surrounded by ravines, and it was burned by the Spanish in 1524. What remains is low: plaza groups, platform foundations, a ball court and the outlines of temples on open grass above the gorges. Its living significance is underground. A tunnel runs beneath the site, its origins argued over, and it is used continuously by K'iche' spiritual guides for ceremonies, so that walking into it means passing through smoke, candles and offerings with people at prayer. The Popol Vuh, the K'iche' book of creation, is bound up with this place.

History

The K'iche' capital stood first at Jakawitz and then at Pismachi' before Q'umarkaj, "rotted reed houses", was founded around 1400 for its defensive position by King Q'uq'umatz, "feathered serpent", who greatly expanded the kingdom. In March 1524 Pedro de Alvarado entered the city at the invitation of the surviving K'iche' lords, after defeating their army in the Quetzaltenango valley, and then had the captured lords burnt to death and the whole city burned (Wikipedia, Qʼumarkaj).

The main sights

• The ceremonial tunnel - candles, smoke and offerings underground.
• Plaza and ball court foundations - the layout of the K'iche' capital.
• Ravines around the plateau - the defensive setting of the city.
• The Popol Vuh connection - the K'iche' history tied to this place.

When to go

November to April, before the rains return. Half a day from Santa Cruz del Quiche. Ceremonies are frequent; ask before entering the tunnel and do not photograph people at prayer.

What to expect

Surface remains are low and eroded and there is little interpretation. The tunnel is dark, smoky and narrow, and it is a place of worship rather than an attraction. Bring a torch. Behaviour matters here more than at most sites.

Nearby

Santa Cruz del Quiche is east; Chichicastenango lies south.

Key facts