Iximche

Iximche was founded in the second half of the fifteenth century as the capital of the Kaqchikel, on a defensible ridge in the highlands with ravines on three sides, and it consists of a series of plazas with temple platforms, ball courts and palace foundations, laid out in the compact highland manner rather than the sprawling lowland one. The Spanish briefly made it their first capital in 1524. It remains a living religious site: Maya spiritual guides hold ceremonies at altars in the site and in the pine woods behind it, and visitors will often find offerings, candles and incense burning, which is the most striking thing about the place.

What you actually see

• Plazas and ball courts - the compact highland Kaqchikel layout.
• Ceremonial altars in use - offerings, candles and incense burning.
• The defensible ridge - ravines on three sides of the site.
• Pine woods behind the plazas - the ground used for ceremonies.

When to go

The dry season, November to April. Half a day, easily combined with Tecpan or Lake Atitlan. Ceremonies happen without a schedule and should not be interrupted or photographed without asking.

Honest expectations

The structures are low and plainly restored; visitors expecting Tikal will be disappointed. It is a living religious site and behaviour matters. It sits at 2,200 metres and is cold and windy. Facilities are limited.

Nearby

Tecpan is south; Lake Atitlan lies west.