Syrrako and Kalarites

Syrrako and Kalarites stand on opposite flanks of the Chrousias gorge at around 1,200 metres, built entirely of the local grey stone, with slate roofs, arched doorways and stepped lanes where no car can pass; both are protected as traditional settlements. They were Vlach communities of shepherds, muleteers and silversmiths, wealthy in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries from trade routes across the Balkans, and Kalarites in particular was known for its silverwork: the Bulgari family emigrated from here to Italy in the 1880s and founded the jewellery house that still bears the Greek form of their name, Voulgaris. Both villages emptied through the twentieth century and now hold a handful of permanent residents, filling in summer and at festivals. A footpath links them across the gorge in about ninety minutes.

What to look for

• The stone architecture - slate roofs, arches and stepped car-free lanes.
• The gorge path - the old route linking the two villages on foot.
• The Kalarites silver tradition - the workshops behind the Bulgari story.
• The Tzoumerka views - the limestone wall of the range above.

When to go

Late spring to early autumn; snow closes the roads in winter and the villages nearly empty. August brings returning families and village festivals, the liveliest time by far.

Things to know

The access roads are single-track with drops and take far longer than the distance suggests. Cars must be left at the village edge. There are very few beds and tavernas, often open only at weekends, so plan ahead or visit as a day trip.

Nearby

Pramanta and the Tzoumerka waterfalls lie east; the Plaka bridge is downstream on the Arachthos.