Sanctuary of the Great Gods

The sanctuary lies in a ravine on the north coast of Samothrace, and its mystery cult of the Great Gods was open to anyone, Greek or not, free or enslaved, which set it apart from most ancient religion; initiates included Macedonian kings, and Philip II is said to have met Olympias here. The remains spread across three terraces: the Hieron with its restored columns, the Anaktoron where initiation took place, the round Arsinoeion, the largest circular building in ancient Greece, and a theatre. Above them stood the Nike of Samothrace, the winged Victory carved around 190 BC and found here in 1863, now the centrepiece of a staircase in the Louvre; a cast stands in the site museum. The setting, thick plane woods, running water and mountains behind, is half the experience.

What you actually see

• The Hieron - restored columns of the main initiation building.
• The Arsinoeion - foundations of the largest ancient Greek rotunda.
• The Nike's setting - the terrace where the winged Victory stood.
• The museum - finds from the sanctuary and a cast of the Nike.

When to go

May, June and September; the site is shaded in parts but summer is hot, and winter storms cut ferry links to the island. The sanctuary is one of the few reliably open attractions on Samothrace.

Honest expectations

Reaching Samothrace takes a ferry from Alexandroupoli that weather regularly cancels. The remains are foundations and partial reconstructions, and the Nike is in Paris. Signage is adequate but a guidebook helps.

Nearby

The waterfalls and rock pools of Fonias are along the coast; the island's peak, Saos, rises inland.