Parga

Parga curves around a small bay in tiers of houses painted ochre, pink and white, with the Venetian castle on the headland above and the islet of Panagia, crowned by a white chapel, sitting a short swim offshore. The castle was rebuilt by the Venetians in the sixteenth century and later held by Ali Pasha, whose hammam survives inside; the walls are free to enter and the view down over the roofs to the bay is the classic Parga image. Beaches lie either side of the town, Kryoneri below the castle, Valtos over the ridge, and Lichnos to the south, all with clear water. Boats run to Paxos and Antipaxos, and up the coast to the Acheron river mouth at Ammoudia.

History

In antiquity the Thesprotians lived here, Mycenaean tholos tombs have been found nearby, and in the late Hellenistic age the town of Toryne, "ladle", named for the shape of its beach, stood on the site. Parga itself is first mentioned in 1318, its name probably Slavic, and two years later the Despot of Epirus, Nicholas Orsini, offered it in vain to Venice; it passed to Venice in 1401, ruled as a mainland outpost of Corfu, and the senate granted its citizens a 10-year tax exemption in 1454 after heavy Ottoman raids. In 1570 rebels under Emmanuel Mormoris used it as a base when they briefly overthrew Ottoman rule on the coast of Epirus (Wikipedia, Parga).

What to look for

• The tiered town - pastel houses rising from the bay in an amphitheatre.
• The Venetian castle - free-access walls above the harbour with wide views.
• Panagia islet - the chapel-topped rock a short swim from Kryoneri beach.
• Valtos and Lichnos - long beaches on either side of the headland.

When to go

May, June and September for warm sea without the peak crowds; July and August are heavily booked by package visitors. Winter is very quiet, with most businesses shut.

Before you go

Parga is a resort and prices on the waterfront reflect it; in high season the small centre is congested and parking is difficult, with paid lots outside town. The prettiness is real but so is the commercialisation.

Nearby

The Acheron river mouth at Ammoudia is fifteen minutes south; Syvota and its coves lie north.

Key facts