Nafplio

Nafplio was modern Greece's first capital, and it has traded politics for charm ever since: a peninsula old town of Venetian mansions, balconied lanes, bougainvillea and marble squares beneath the mighty Palamidi fortress, whose walls pour down the cliff toward the harbour where the little Bourtzi castle floats on its islet like a stage prop. Athenians treat it as their romantic weekend - candlelit tavernas, gelato promenades, a swim at Arvanitia below the walls - and travellers use it as the perfect base for the eastern Peloponnese, with Mycenae and Epidaurus each a short drive. The famous claim of 999 fortress steps is the town's favourite argument; the count varies with who is panting.

What you actually see

• Palamidi fortress - the great Venetian stronghold by steps or by road.
• The Bourtzi - the harbour's floating castle, prettiest at dusk.
• The old town lanes - Syntagma square, mansions and the promenade round the point.
• Arvanitia and the coastal walk - the town swim spot beneath the walls.

When to go

Spring and autumn are perfect - warm light on the stone, tables outdoors and no crush. Summer weekends fill with Athenians and prices lift; midweek stays keep the calm. Winter Nafplio is a quiet, atmospheric secret with the fortresses to yourself.

Honest expectations

Nafplio is polished and priced a notch above Peloponnese norms - it is the boutique weekend town, and knows it. The step climb to Palamidi is honest work in heat; the road reaches the top gate for the sensible. Beaches near town are serviceable rather than spectacular - the great sands lie a drive away. As a base, it is unbeatable; as a beach holiday, it is the wrong tool.

Nearby

Mycenae, Epidaurus, the wineries of Nemea and the beaches toward Tolo all sit within an easy drive.