Mikrolimano

Mikrolimano, the small harbour, was the ancient port of Mounychia and is now a near-circular basin lined on one side with fish restaurants and on the other with moored yachts and small fishing boats, backed by the Kastella hill with its stacked neoclassical houses. Athenians come here to eat fish by the water, and the tables run along the quay with the masts a few metres away; prices are higher than in a neighbourhood taverna and the touting can be persistent, but the setting at dusk with the lights on the water is the reason. Above, the Kastella hill has narrow lanes worth walking and the open-air Veakio theatre, and the coastal path continues toward Piraeus port on one side and Faliro on the other.

What you actually see

• The harbour crescent - fishing boats and yachts in a near-circular basin.
• The quayside tavernas - fish restaurants with tables at the water's edge.
• The Kastella hill - neoclassical houses stacked above the harbour.
• The evening lights - the classic dusk view across the basin.

When to go

Evenings, spring through autumn, when the tables are outside and the light is right. Sunday lunch is a strong Athenian tradition here. Winter keeps a few places open behind glass.

Honest expectations

This is a destination for eating rather than sightseeing, and it is priced accordingly; check prices before sitting, particularly for fish sold by weight. Touting at the entrances is common. The harbour itself is small and walked in ten minutes.

Nearby

Piraeus port and the ferries are west; the Faliro coast and the Niarchos centre lie east.