Loukoumades

Loukoumades are yeast dough dropped in small rounds into hot oil, fried until hollow and crisp, then drenched in honey syrup and dusted with cinnamon, sometimes with crushed walnuts. The dish descends from the honey fritters of antiquity, which one tradition says were given to victors at the ancient games. In Athens they belong to a particular kind of shop: small, tiled, open to the street, often family-run for generations, where a single machine drops the dough into the fryer and the whole operation is visible from the pavement; some of the oldest around Omonia and the central market have been working since the 1930s. Portions are served hot in a bowl and eaten immediately, traditionally with a strong coffee.

What you actually see

• The historic shops - tiled, street-facing places that make only this.
• The frying - dough dropped, turned and lifted in front of the customer.
• The honey and cinnamon - the classic finish, with walnuts optional.
• The morning trade - locals eating standing up with a coffee.

When to go

Any time of year; they are best eaten straight from the fryer, so go when a shop is busy rather than quiet. Traditional shops open early and can sell out by evening.

Honest expectations

Modern chains have added chocolate and ice cream versions that bear little resemblance to the traditional dish; for the original, choose the plainest-looking shop. Portions are sweet and heavy, and a small one goes a long way.

Nearby

The central market on Athinas Street is nearby; Monastiraki and Psyri are a short walk south.