Thalassery Biryani

Almost every Indian biryani uses long-grain basmati; Thalassery's uses kaima, also called jeerakasala, a small short-grained aromatic rice grown in Wayanad, which gives a different texture entirely, softer and more absorbent. The Malabar Muslim style layers that rice over a masala of chicken, mutton or fish with fried onion, cashew and raisin, seals the pot with dough and finishes it on dum with coals above and below. Spicing is milder and more fragrant than the Hyderabadi style, with fennel and cinnamon prominent. It is served with a date and lime pickle and a thin raita, and the town's Muslim trading history is part of how it developed.

What you actually see

• The kaima rice - short aromatic grain used instead of basmati.
• The dum sealing - the pot closed with dough and finished under coals.
• The garnish - fried onion, cashew and raisin over the rice.
• The accompaniments - date and lime pickle with a thin raita.

When to go

Year-round; the dish is served at lunch and dinner across Malabar, and at its most elaborate at weddings and during Ramadan evenings in the Muslim quarters.

Honest expectations

Many restaurants elsewhere sell basmati versions under the Thalassery name; the short-grain rice is what distinguishes the real thing. The dish is rich and portions are large.

Nearby

Kannur lies north; Kozhikode is south.