Apiranthos

Apiranthos sits at around six hundred metres on the flank of Naxos's central range, and it is unlike the rest of the island: the lanes are paved in local marble, the houses are built of undressed stone rather than whitewashed, and two Venetian towers stand among them. The population descends from Cretan families who arrived in waves from the seventeenth century onward, and older residents still speak a dialect with Cretan features. The village has a strong intellectual tradition and holds four small museums, archaeological, folklore, geological and natural history, unusual for a place of this size. Around it lie the emery mines that were once the island's main export, with an aerial cable line still visible on the slopes.

What you actually see

• The marble lanes - streets paved in local stone, arched in places.
• The Venetian towers - fortified houses among the village buildings.
• The four museums - archaeology, folklore, geology and natural history.
• The emery workings - abandoned mine structures and cable lines nearby.

When to go

Spring for wildflowers on the slopes and clear air, autumn for warm days without crowds. Summer is cooler here than the coast, which makes it a common afternoon escape. Museums keep short and irregular hours.

Honest expectations

The village is small and quiet, with a few tavernas and shops, and the museums are one-room affairs often closed. Streets are steep and marble is slippery when wet. Buses from Chora are infrequent.

Nearby

Mount Zas trailheads and Filoti are west; Moutsouna and the east coast lie below.