Lac du Der-Chantecoq

The lake was created in 1974 by damming to regulate the Marne and reduce flood risk downstream in Paris, drowning three villages in the process; some churches were dismantled and rebuilt elsewhere. At around forty-eight square kilometres it is one of the largest artificial lakes in Europe, and it turned into a major bird site almost immediately. Common cranes use it as a staging post on migration between northern Europe and Spain, and counts in late autumn can exceed two hundred thousand birds; they roost on the shallows and fly out at dawn to feed in the fields, which is the spectacle people come for. White-tailed eagles winter here too.

What you actually see

• The crane roost - tens of thousands of birds leaving the water at dawn.
• The dawn and dusk flights - long skeins crossing between lake and fields.
• The observation hides - platforms and the Ferme aux Grues viewing point.
• The half-timbered churches - Champagne timber churches around the shore.

When to go

Late October to December for peak crane numbers, and again in late February on the return passage. Summer is a water sports lake with few birds. Dawn is the time, in cold conditions.

Honest expectations

The spectacle is at first light in freezing weather and requires an early start and warm clothes. Numbers vary year to year and with weather in Germany. Water levels are drawn down through the season, which changes where birds roost.

Nearby

Troyes lies southwest; Reims is northwest.