Chablis

Chablis makes white wine from Chardonnay alone, and the character locals credit is the soil: Kimmeridgian marl full of small fossil oysters, laid down when this was a warm sea, which growers connect to the mineral edge in the glass. All seven grand cru vineyards lie on one southwest-facing slope across the Serein from the town, in a single band: Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur and Vaudesir. Frost is the perpetual risk, and in spring you can see candles and sprinkler systems set out among the vines. The town itself is modest, rebuilt in part after 1940 damage, with cellars under it.

What you actually see

• The grand cru slope - all seven named vineyards in one band above the river.
• The fossil soil - Kimmeridgian marl with small oyster shells in the earth.
• The frost defences - candles and sprinklers among the vines in spring.
• The town cellars - tasting rooms in vaults under the streets.

When to go

May to October; harvest is usually September. Spring frost nights, when candles are lit in the vineyards, are unpredictable but memorable. Many domaines close for lunch and require appointments.

Honest expectations

The town is small and workmanlike rather than picturesque, having been damaged in 1940. Serious tastings need booking. Prices for grand cru are high and not all cellars pour them.

Nearby

Auxerre lies west; Noyers-sur-Serein is southeast.