Tampere Cathedral

Tampere cathedral was built between 1902 and 1907 to a design by Lars Sonck in rough grey granite with a squat tower, one of the fullest expressions of Finnish national romanticism in a church. What people come for is inside. Hugo Simberg painted the decorative scheme, and it is not conventional: a procession of naked boys carrying a garland runs around the gallery, the Garden of Death shows skeletons in black robes tending potted plants with evident care, and a winged serpent is painted on the ceiling above the altar, which caused a public argument at the time and was nearly removed. Simberg's Wounded Angel hangs in the choir.

What you actually see

• The Garden of Death - skeletons tending plants along the wall.
• The garland-bearing boys - the frieze running round the gallery.
• The winged serpent on the ceiling - the detail that caused the argument.
• Sonck's rough granite exterior - national romanticism in stone.

When to go

Year round. One hour. It closes for services and weddings, and hours are shorter in winter. Photography inside is usually permitted without flash.

Honest expectations

It closes without much notice for services and events. The interior is dim and the frescoes need time for the eyes to adjust. It is a single building and the visit is short. Winter opening is limited.

Nearby

The Finlayson area is west; the railway station lies nearby.