Dirre Sheikh Hussein Shrine

Dirre Sheikh Hussein is a walled complex of whitewashed domed tombs, mosques and enclosures in dry country northeast of Robe, built around the tomb of Sheikh Nur Hussein, a twelfth-century figure credited with spreading Islam among the Oromo. It has been a pilgrimage destination for centuries, and twice a year, in the periods called Muda, tens of thousands of pilgrims converge on foot carrying forked staffs, with singing, drumming and rituals that mix Islamic practice with older Oromo religious elements in a way that is characteristic of the region. The architecture is unlike anything else in Ethiopia, low white domes and courtyards in a semi-desert setting. Outside the pilgrimage the site is quiet and a caretaker shows visitors around.

What you actually see

• White domed tombs - the shrine buildings and their enclosures.
• The walled complex - courtyards, mosques and gates in the compound.
• Pilgrim ritual - the Muda gatherings with staffs, song and drums.
• Semi-desert setting - the dry country the complex stands in.

When to go

The two Muda pilgrimages fall at set points in the year and are the extraordinary times to be here, though conditions are crowded and basic. Otherwise November to March for the roads. The site is open year round.

Honest expectations

The drive from Robe is long and rough, most of a day each way. This is an active religious site, so modest dress, removing shoes and asking before photographing are expected. During Muda there is no accommodation and pilgrims camp. Facilities at any time are essentially none.

Nearby

Sof Omar caves lie southwest; Robe is the base town.