Setomaa

The Seto are a distinct group in southeastern Estonia with a South Estonian language of their own, an Orthodox rather than Lutheran tradition, and a body of custom that stayed separate from the rest of the country. Their singing, leelo, is a polyphonic form led by a lead singer with a chorus answering, sung by women in the heavy silver breastplates and belts of the Seto costume, and it was inscribed on the UNESCO intangible heritage list in 2009. The region holds farm museums at Varska and Obinitsa, village chapels called tsässon, the Seto kingdom day held each August with a chosen regent, and Piusa sand caves nearby. Varska has a mineral water spa.

What you actually see

• Leelo singing - the polyphonic tradition performed by the choirs.
• The Seto costume - the silver breastplates and belts worn at events.
• Tsässon chapels - the small wooden village chapels of the region.
• Farm museums - the collections at Varska and Obinitsa.

When to go

May to September for the museums and the villages; the Seto kingdom day in August is the main event and brings the singing, costume and food together. Winter opening is limited across the region.

Honest expectations

Leelo is performed at events and by arrangement rather than continuously; catching it takes timing. Museums keep short seasonal hours. The region is spread out and needs a car. Seto communities live on both sides of the eastern boundary.

Nearby

Piusa caves lie west; Vastseliina is south.