Qohaito

Qohaito, spread across a high, windswept plateau in southern Eritrea, is one of the country's most important archaeological sites, the remains of a substantial ancient town linked to the great Aksumite civilisation that once dominated the region and the Red Sea trade. Scattered across the grasslands at over two and a half thousand metres stand the ruins of temples, columns and buildings, an ancient dam still holding water, and nearby rock shelters bearing prehistoric paintings. The setting is as memorable as the ruins: the plateau ends abruptly in a spectacular deep canyon, offering sweeping views. Remote and atmospheric, Qohaito is an evocative window on the deep history of the Eritrean highlands.

History

Rock art near Qohaito suggests people lived in the area from the fifth millennium BC, and the town, which grew up before the Aksumite period and flourished during it, survived until the sixth century AD. It is usually identified with Koloe, described in the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea at the end of the first century AD as a stop on the trade route between Adulis and Aksum, and its fields seem to have been laid out among its buildings, which include the pre-Christian Temple of Mariam Wakino and the Sahira Dam, perhaps also pre-Aksumite. The British explorer Clements Markham first recorded the ruins in 1868, mistaking them for a "Greek deposit"; a team from the National Museum of Eritrea surveyed and inventoried the site between 1996 and 1998, and in 2011 it was put on UNESCO's tentative list. The related site of Matara lies about 15 km to the south (Wikipedia, Qohaito).

What to look for

• The temple ruins - the ancient columns and buildings.
• The ancient dam - the old stone dam still holding water.
• The rock art - the prehistoric paintings in nearby shelters.
• The canyon views - the dramatic plateau edge and deep gorge.

When to go

October to March brings mild, dry weather to the high plateau, ideal for exploring the scattered ruins and canyon viewpoints; the altitude keeps Qohaito cool, and clear days give the finest views over the deep gorge. Warm layers help in the windswept highlands.

Before you go

Qohaito is a remote, spread-out site on a windswept plateau with few facilities, so its ruins reward those who enjoy atmospheric archaeology and dramatic landscape over polished monuments. As the remains of an important ancient Aksumite-era town, with temples, an ancient dam and rock art above a spectacular canyon, though, Qohaito is a genuinely evocative and rewarding place.

Nearby

The town of Adi Keyh and the southern highlands lie around the site.

Key facts