Wadi El Natrun

Wadi El Natrun is a shallow depression of salt lakes below sea level between Cairo and Alexandria, and its natron deposits gave it its name and its ancient importance, since natron was the salt used in mummification. From the fourth century it became the heartland of Egyptian monasticism: thousands of monks lived in the desert here under Macarius and his successors, and four monasteries survive from what were once dozens, Deir Anba Bishoi, Deir al-Suryan, Deir Abu Maqar and Deir al-Baramus. All four are walled with keep towers built against raids, and Deir al-Suryan holds wall paintings of several periods uncovered by conservation, along with a famous carved wooden door. All are working communities with resident monks.

What you actually see

• Four walled monasteries - the survivors of a much larger monastic desert.
• Deir al-Suryan wall paintings - layers uncovered by long conservation.
• Refuge keep towers - the fortified blocks monks retreated into.
• The natron lakes - the salt deposits that gave the valley its name.

When to go

October to April. A day for two or three monasteries; all four is ambitious. Visits are restricted during Coptic fasting periods, which are long and frequent, so check dates first. Fridays and Sundays bring pilgrims.

Honest expectations

Fasting-period closures catch out many visitors. Access to particular churches depends on the community and is not guaranteed. Modest dress is required and photography inside is generally not allowed. The monasteries are several kilometres apart and a car is needed.

Nearby

The Cairo to Alexandria desert road runs past; Cairo is about ninety minutes east.